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There are endless species of fruit trees that could be planted in Forest Gardens, based on the needs and interests of the families who plant them. In TREES’ Forest Garden projects, we tend to focus on those that meet market demand for families to earn income from them. As the scope of this manual is to offer general resources to guide trainers, we will focus on a handful of the more common species that families plant in their Forest Gardens.

Mango

Mangifera indica   TREE DESCRIPTION Mangifera indica is a large evergreen tree to 20 m tall with a dark green, umbrella-shaped crown. Fruit an irregularly egg-shaped and slightly compressed fleshy drupe, 8-12 (max. 30) cm long, attached at the broadest end on a pendulous stalk. The skin smooth, greenish-yellow, sometimes tinged with red. The underlying yellow-orange flesh varies in quality from soft, sweet, juicy and fibre-free in high-quality selected (clonal) varieties to turpentine flavoured and fibrous in wild seedlings. The trees are drought tolerant but do not seem to suffer from occasional flooding. Mangoes are one of the most popular, widely-produced fruits in the world. However, production of local varieties with low yields and small fruit greatly reduces the profitability of mango cultivation. Specialized varieties require large amounts of start-up labor, and constant care for at least the first three years. PROPAGATION DATA

• Propagation Method: From seed
• Seed Collection: Seeds should come from matured fruits grown in your area. It should be free from insect damage, diseases or mechanical injuries. Avoid seeds coming from processing plants, since most of them are non-viable due to exposure from heat.
• Seed Pretreatment: Dehusking or removal of the husk is recommended to facilitate fast germination. Be sure that dehusked seeds are plump and plant only those that are free from pest damage or physiological injuries. Healthy seeds should be sown with concave side down, 5 cm apart and 1 cm deep. This position prevents the development of crooked stem after germination.

Bareroot Germination:   The best method to start mango seedlings is in a bareroot bed. Prior to sowing the seeds, double dig and amend the bed (see section on nursery beds). After preparing the bed, sow the seeds with 5 cm spacing between seeds, and 10 to 15 cm between rows, depending on the size of the seed. Then cover the seeds with a thin layer of soil. There are a few reasons why it is beneficial to sow the seeds in a germination bed:

• To prevent seed rot, as water will drain more freely in the open soil of a bareroot bed
• The individual sprouts of polyembryonic seeds can be more easily thinned when dug up from the bed than when started in tree sacks
• Smaller or weaker seedlings can be left or replanted in the same bed (if pulled out during removal of stronger seedlings) for later use once the stronger seedlings have been moved.

Trenching Trees:   Once the healthiest seedlings from the bare root nursery have been identified, they should be transferred to trenches. Trenching trees allows the trees to develop with more space and nutrients than are commonly available with tree sacks. Trenching also allows trees to establish a taproot that will be essential to drawing the nutrients and moisture required to survive grafting, and then allows easier removal of the root ball at outplanting. Typically, trees are trenched at the end of the rainy season. To trench trees:

• Dig a straight trench 50cm wide by 30cm deep.
• Carefully remove seedling clusters from the germination bed with a spade shovel, and gently separate the seedlings by hand. Select the strongest, most developed seedlings and transplant them into trenches
• Trim any kinked, rotten, or injured roots
• Return small or underdeveloped seedlings to the bed or discard them if you have the number of seedlings needed. If seedlings are diseased or pest-ridden, burn them. If they are deformed they can be composted.
• Transplant the healthy seedlings into the trenches, leaving 30cm spacing between seedlings.
• Remove all but a few of the leaves to cut down on evapotranspiration.

Trenching grants the following benefits:

• Water saving – Trenched trees require less water compared to trees out-planted in the field, this means less care while they mature to a graft-able age.
• Root care – Removing the bottom of the tree sack allows the taproot to grow without risk of damage or infections from water logging. The top part of the sack helps slow lateral roots to reduce transplanting stress.
• Grafting station – Tree trenches are the ideal place to graft, as they are protected and easily monitored.

  SITE REQUIREMENTS

• Preferred Soils: Mango does not have strict soil requirements, since the trees are deep-rooted and grow over a wide range of soil type and fertility levels. Planting trees in waterlogged areas should be avoided to prevent depletion from oxygen and infection due to soil-borne fungus.
• Optimal Spacing: Generally at least 10 x 10m, but depends on variety

TREE CARE

• Pruning Period: Preferably pruning should be done during summer months after harvest. If done during the rainy season, the cut portions should be protected from fungal infection by application of fungicides, paint or coal tar.
• Pruning Frequency: Pruning is done to remove undesirable and crowded branches which are of no use to the tree. This includes the removal of water sprouts, old, decaying and unproductive dried and overcrowded branches, infected and infested parts to discourage the presence and multiplication of insect pests and diseases. Pruning allowed maximum light penetration and air circulation in the canopy. This minimizes the build-up of diseases inoculum and insect population particularly, mango leafhoppers.

     

Avocado

Persea americana           TREE DESCRIPTION The Avocado is an evergreen tree reaching 10-20 meters in height. The small yellowish flowers are in clusters of thousands at the ends of new stem growth. Fruit shape ranges from pyramidal or pear-shaped to oval or spherical. The skin texture ranges from smooth to scaly with a color from dark green to violet. The flesh color varies from pale yellow to a clear green. Depending on the variety, fruit size may be 50g-2kg with up to half of that weight being the seed. Grafted trees begin producing fruit after 4-5 years, usually between May and December. Fruits mature 6-12months after flowering. PROPAGATION DATA

• Propagation Method: From seed
• Seed Collection: Collect seeds still on the tree so as to lower the chances of the seeds picking up fungi
• Seed Pretreatment: Soak seeds in hot water for 30 min as a treatment against the seed born fungal disease Phytophthora cinamoni
• Germination Rate: Allow seed to germinate by leaving it half submerged in a cup of water before being placed in a polypot, To ensure uniform germination
• Time to Germination: Allow 4-6 weeks for germination
• Time in Nursery: 15-18 months in the nursery
• Grafting Method: Whip and tongue or T-budding are the most common
• Age before fruiting: 4 to 5 years

SITE REQUIREMENTS

• Preferred Soils: For best production, deep, fertile, well-drained soils, particularly sandy or alluvial loam soils and have a pH of neutral or slightly acid are suited for avocado.
• Minimum Rainfall: Minimum annual rainfall requirement of 750 – 1,000 mm is recommended
• Optimal Spacing: 8x8m spacing with 80x80x80cm hole

TREE CARE

• Pruning Period: Winter months
• Pruning Frequency: Only those decayed or dead branches that hamper its growth should be pruned. Varieties which have a vertical growth can be pruned judiciously to encourage horizontal growth
• Common Pests: Scales, thrips, and fruit flies are all pests of the trees; Root Rot (phytopthora cinnamomi, fatal); Cercopsoriose
• Irrigation Needs: In areas with distinct wet and dry seasons, water supply is very essential during dry months, especially during the first 2 or 3 years of the trees. Young trees are very sensitive to heat and water and should be irrigated regularly. Irrigate every two weeks.
• IPM Methods: Avoid planting trees in soils that have poor drainage and avoid over watering; Cercopsoriose: Spray with benomyl at 10 day intervals during the rainy season and 28 day intervals during the dry season when fruit is on the tree.

Cashew

Anacardium occidentale           TREE DESCRIPTION The Cashew is an evergreen tree that grows to a 10 to 12 meter height.  It is easily recognizable by its spreading crown. Its leaves have rounded ends, clear veins, and are distinctively glossy. They leaves are spirally arranged and could be described as elliptical or obvate, 4 – 22 cm long and 2 – 15 cm broad, leathery in texture and a smooth margin. Cashew has a dominant taproot. The flowers are produced in a corymb of up to 26 cm long. They have five petals, and are initially pale green, eventually turning reddish. Fruit Description Fruit is a fleshy apple, typically 3-6 cm in size. Fruit color ranges from yellow to orange to red.  The seed is attached to the bottom end of the fruit and hangs externally. The pulp is very juicy, but the skin is very fragile and extremely susceptible to consumption by insects, animals and birds alike. This makes it unsuitable for transport. PROPAGATION DATA

• Propagation Method: Cashew can be propagated by seeding in a nursery, direct seeding, and/or grafting.
• Seed Pretreatment: You should remove the seeds and dry them in the sunlight. Pre-treat seeds in a 24 hour cold soak.  Discard the floaters (They might germinate but won’t necessarily produce good trees).
• Germination Rate: Depends on the quality of seeds, but make sure to get rid of the floaters.
• Time to Germination: Depends on how you plant the seed, but the seed should be planted like a desk phone, the bottom (bigger part) farther in the dirt and the top part showing a little for most rapid germination (approximately 5 days to one week with treated seeds).
• Time in Nursery: Cashews should have 6 to 8 weeks in the nursery. Do not over water or the seeds will mold
• Grafting Method: Whip and tongue grafting
• Age before fruiting: 3 to 5 years

SITE REQUIREMENTS A 20 x 20 x 20 cm transplant hole is sufficient. Be careful not to damage the taproot when transplanting. Do not wait too long to outplant seedlings as the danger of damaging the taproot increases. The planting distances for cashew varies depending on the purpose the tree is supposed to serve. If planted in a field where crops will continue to be grown, 5 x 20 m space is generally recommended. For orchards, 12 x 12 m spacing is recommended. Cashews do well when direct seeded. Seed two per hole when the rains are regular. After a week, eliminate the weakest seedling.

• Preferred Soils: Sandy well-drained soils are the best but cashew can tolerate a range of soils and climates.
• Minimum Rainfall: 500 mm/yr
• Optimal Spacing: 5m by 20m (recommended) in a field where crops will still be grown. 5m by 5m in orchard spacing

TREE CARE The cashew requires no special watering, cuvettes or pruning (in the early stages) in the field. Protect seedlings from animals. Seedlings and young trees should be weeded to protect them from dry season fires. It is good to inhibit fruit production until the third year, by cutting off the blossoms.

• Pruning Period: You should start pruning three years after outplanting.  For the period during the year, after harvesting, during the rainy season (July) is the best.
• Pruning Frequency: Prune every year
• Common Pests: Spiders very rarely
• Irrigation Needs: None
• IPM Methods: Weeding and pruning only

Citrus

Citrus spp.           TREE DESCRIPTION Citrus trees are evergreen trees which will generally grow to heights of three to four meters depending on the variety.  Budded or grafted citrus trees could be slightly smaller.  Citrus roots reach downward to 1.5 meters. The secondary roots are between 0.15 and 0.8 meters depth. They have hard, dark colored evergreen leaves which contain oils. The fruit are all segmented. Some varieties do not contain seed. The seed may be mono- or polyembryonic. PROPAGATION DATA Un-grafted or un-budded citrus will flower and fruit as soon as five years after planting if in adequate conditions, whereas grafted and budded trees may flower as early as the year they are grafted. Citrus is typically propagated in seed or germination beds. They should be composed of well-drained soils as to avoid rotting of the very sensitive citrus seeds. Water the beds often but lightly. In these beds, seeds should be sown 1 cm deep with 10-20 cm between rows. They can also be dispersed randomly in beds. Trenching: Transplant into tree sacks when the citrus seedlings get close to being 15 cm tall.  At this point a rigorous selection process should be used to eliminate any bad seedlings.  Do not transplant unusually small or non-vigorous seedlings, seedlings with malformed roots, twisted, “j” rooted, or diseased seedlings.  Only the best seedlings should be transplanted to the next step. When transplanting trim the root hairs and the taproot down to 15 cm, this is to promote new growth.  Rupert suggests shortening the seedling by 1/3 as well.  Make a 15 – 20 cm hole in the center of the sack, plant the seedling into the hole, and press the soil around the roots trying to avoid any air pockets.  Make sure the collar of the seedling is located in the same place relative to the soil surface. Keep the sacks in the shade until the seedlings start to grow again. Make sure to weed the sacks regularly. When the rainy season is almost over dig the trench.

• Propagation Method: Seeds and grafting
• Seed Collection: Citrus seeds decompose quickly so only fresh seeds should be collected and used. Seeds should be dried in the shade never in the sun. When drying the seed do not allow the seed to completely dry out but just dry out the surface for a couple of hours.
• Seed Pretreatment: Mixing the dry seeds with ash may help against fungus attacks in the nursery. Store the seed in sealed plastic bags and if possible in a refrigerator making sure there is no humidity inside the bag to spoil the seeds. Seed in rows in the germination bed about 1 cm deep with 20 cm between rows. Sow seeds in the rows with 1 cm between seeds.
• Germination Rate: 70%
• Time to Germination: 15-30 days
• Time in Nursery: One year
• Grafting Method: Scions and budding
• Age before fruiting: 5 years for rootsocks and as early as the first year for grafted tree

SITE REQUIREMENTS The transplant hole for citrus should be 80 x 80 x 80 cm. Although citrus can be outplanted anytime of the year, transplanting in the dry season if water is not an issue, so the seedling can get established before the upcoming rainy season.

• Preferred Soils: The soil needs to be well-drained. Adult trees need lots of direct sunlight to flower and fruit
• Minimum Rainfall: more than 1200 mm rainfall per year
• Optimal Spacing: 8 X 8

TREE CARE Citrus are very spindly and tend to branch from the base of the tree. In order to raise productive trees, pruning is a must. A citrus tree which is well pruned could be kept the size of a bush and even raised in pots without hampering its ability to produce. Irrigation: Citrus trees will need to be irrigated for their first 3 years. In the drier areas and places with a deep water table irrigation may be needed throughout the life of the tree. Irrigation for most adult citrus trees is 20 liters 3 times a week. Once the trees are established and producing fruit, irrigation may no longer be needed but watering 2 -3 months before the rainy season can urge early blooming. If irrigated some varieties, notably the Japanese orange, will fruit all year round. Pruning: Citrus species tend to require a lot of pruning. Most pruning should be done right after the harvest. Citrus fruit only form on new stem growth so branch ends should be pruned to urge new growth. Since it is very important for branches with fruit to have adequate sunlight, each year branches should be thinned and those “inside” the crown removed altogether to increase sunlight penetration. Other experts suggest only pruning any suckers originating from below the graft or bud site, any branches below 80 cm, and all dead branches.

• Pruning Period: Citrus species require a lot of pruning. Most pruning should be done right after the harvest
• Pruning Frequency: Since it is very important for branches with fruit to have adequate sunlight, each year branches should be thinned and those “inside” the crown removed altogether to increase sunlight penetration
• Irrigation Needs: Citrus trees will need to be irrigated for their first 3 years.  In the drier areas and places with a deep water table irrigation may be needed throughout the life of the tree.  Irrigation for most adult citrus trees is 20 liters 3 times a week.

 

Banana

Musa spp.         TREE DESCRIPTION Bananas are not really trees but are a large grass species. They are monocots. Bananas are also sterile; although producing both male and female flowers the banana fruit does not contain seed. Bananas will flower after they produce 30 leaves, usually in 8 to 13 months. Male flowers are purple and located at the end of the stem; female flowers are enclosed in bracts containing 6-7 “hands” each with 8-16 “fingers” or bananas. Once the plant flowers, fruit will ripen 5 months later. FRUIT DESCRIPTION The ovaries contained in the first (female) flowers grow rapidly, developing  by parthenocarpy (without pollination) into clusters of fruits, called hands. The number of hands varies with the species and variety. The fruit (technically a berry) turns from deep green to yellow or red, and may range from 2-1/2 to 12 inches in length and 3/4 to 2 inches in width. FRUITING DATA The male flower always appears first from the center of the stem and the female flowers follow on the same stem. The male flower is large and usually purple in color while the female flowers look like fingers (the bananas). When the length of the stem with the male flower gets to be 20 cm long and many female flowers have appeared the male flower should be cut off where the flower meets the stem. Fruit should be kept out of the sun.  Fruit are ripe when they are smooth and have no more angles. PROPAGATION DATA Bananas are propagated vegetatively either by planting a bulb, a bulb with a sucker, or a bayonet.  Usually bulbs are planted two months before the rains because they contain a lot of stored energy and rot easily. This gives them a head start in root formation before the rains arrive. Bayonets, however, need to be planted during the rainy season. Banana plantation holes are 80 cm X 80 cm X 80 cm. The spacing in the plantation should be 2 X 2 meters. Windbreaks are very important. To plant prepare the bulb or shoot by cutting off all the roots any wounds and soaking it in a decomposed manure solution. You also want to promote new growth so cut off any existing shoots and drive a wooden stake into the center of the stem. When planting sink the collar 10 cm deeper into the soil than it was before. When the first sprouts emerge prevent all but the most vigorous from growing. Try to cut them off close as possible to the bulb or the soil surface.

• Age before fruiting: Nine months after planting
• Fruiting Period: Bananas produce fruit throughout the year

  SITE REQUIREMENTS Wind can be very harmful to bananas and should be avoided.  Bananas also do best in sunny areas but cannot tolerate a lot of direct sun (ISRA). They also need shallow water tables (2 – 4 meters).

• Preferred Soils: Humid, humus-rich soils
• Minimum Rainfall: Optimal monthly rainfall is between 200 to 220 mm
• Optimal Spacing: 2 X 2 meters

TREE CARE Mulching is very important and can be done up to 15 cm deep during the dry season. This will also help conserve water. Next generation: once the plant flowers the second generation shoot needs to be chosen. Choose the most vigorous shoot and cut off all the rest while the fruit are maturing – these can be sold or transplanted. When the fruit are harvested cut down the parent plant and let the second generation take its place. After three generations the plant should be replanted.

• Pruning Period: N/A
• Common Pests: Cercosporiose disease: caused by a fungus; yellow leaf spots which expand turning gray. In dry conditions we suggest only preventative measures be taken (not watering every day and planting in well-drained areas); Nematodes
• Irrigation Needs: 20 liters every other day. Susceptible to rotting.
• IPM Methods: Do not have plantations in the same place for more than 5 years. The soil in the plantation hole should also be treated.

   

Papaya

Carica papaya               TREE DESCRIPTION C. papaya is an arborescent herb with leaves that sprout directly from one central trunk-like stem in a spiral or nearly horizontal pattern. The stem can be from 2 to 10 meters tall and grows quickly. The stem is not woody, but a soft spongy tissue, hollow on the inside and up to 30 to 40 cm thick, and is marked with many leaf scars. The green leaves are 30 to 60 cm wide and are deeply divided into 5 to 9 segments with yellow ribs and veins.  Secondary stems will frequently sprout from the main trunk. The leaves and stems contain a type of milky latex. The plant will fruit in 9 to 14 months after seeding and yearly after that. The flowers can either be female, male, or hermaphroditic, and only one type is found on any given tree. All flowers are fleshy and waxy with 5 petals and a slight fragrance.  Female flowers are formed at the base of the leaves, are ivory-white, and have only a pistallate.  Male flowers are formed at the end of long stalks (1.5 – 1.8 m long) that sprout from below the leaves and have only a staminate. Hermaphroditic flowers bloom from short stalks at the base of the leaves and are ivory-white with yellow anthers. Hermaphroditic plants are the easiest to grow for fruit production since they are self-pollinating. If completely self-pollinated the seeds will yield 67% hermaphroditic plants and the rest will be female. Lone papaya trees bearing large amounts of fruit are most likely hermaphroditic. Female plants must be planted near males plants in order to produce fruit.  Fruit from a male/female cross will have 50% female and 50% male seed. Male plants will not produce fruit, and if used to pollinate hermaphroditic plants will produce 33% male, 33% female, and 33% hermaphroditic seed. The solo (hermaphroditic) variety is usually the most desirable as it produces good quality fruit on a short tree that is easy to harvest. When working with solo varieties they must be prevented from cross-breeding with local varieties or their desirable qualities may be lost in future generations. PROPAGATION DATA

• Propagation Method: Seed in nursery either in a tree sack or bare root bed. May be direct seeded, with lower success rates
• Seed Collection: Collect seeds from mature, ripe fruit. Remove gel from seeds immediately after collecting. Plant the seeds or dry seeds in the shade. Dry seeds will lose viability if not planted shortly after.
• Seed Pretreatment: Cold water soak for 24 hours.
• Germination Rate: Sow about 4 to 5 seeds per sack at 0.5 to 1 cm deep.
• Time to Germination: 15 to 30 days to germinate. If there is a possibility of male seeds, thin the strongest plants right after germination as these are most likely to be male.
• Time in Nursery: Outplant after 6 – 8 weeks in the nursery, or when 30 cm tall.  Keep in partial shade until 5 – 10 cm tall.  When plants are 15 cm tall thin so there is one plant per sack.  Papayas can be outplanted at any time of the year since they should be watered all year round.
• Grafting Method: N/A
• Age before fruiting: 9 to 14 months after planting

SITE REQUIREMENTS

• Preferred Soils: Prefers deep, light, porous soils with a pH between 5.5 and 6.7. Grows well in soil with high organic matter but may produce low quality fruit if improperly drained. Water tables of 2-3 meters are preferred.
• Minimum Rainfall: 1500-2000mm per year or heavy irrigation. Requires good drainage.
• Optimal Spacing: Plant at 2 x 2.5 meter spacing. The planting hole should be 50 x 50 x 80 cm.

TREE CARE

• Pruning Period: Dry seasons
• Pruning Frequency: It is recommended to remove all side branches to produce larger fruit.
• Common Pests: Papaya plants can attract nematodes, which can be a problem when papayas are planted in gardens; Rhizoctonia and Phytophora fungi; Scales can be a problem and bats are attracted to the ripe fruit.
• Irrigation Needs: Nursery: Water lightly; First 2 months: 20 liters 3x week;  3 months: on water 30 – 40 liters every 2 days; Keep trunk dry to prevent rot.
• IPM Methods: Nematodes: do not plant papayas in the same spot year after year; sterilize the soil before planting; Neem solution; Rot: make sure the soil is well drained, do not damage the stem; Scales can be picked off by hand or apply soapy water.